Chapter 27: Cabinets and Countertops

1. Introduction

On most Habitat projects the Cabinets and Countertops can be completed during 1 workday. This includes each of the items shown on the Order/Task list and, in most cases, the jobs are to be completed in the order listed. However, many of these tasks can be done simultaneously by different crews, often in conjunction with the Interior Trim jobs. Again, as with the trim installation, it is important to have at least one experienced crew leader for this phase.

2. Safety Issues

• Wear ear & eye protection when using power saws.
• Don't bind the blade of any saw.
• Keep electric cords out of the way of the saw.

3. Prior tasks to have been completed before starting

• Painting of walls and ceilings should be complete. (Especially the walls that the cabinets will be installed against.)
• Vinyl tile floor installed.
• Water and waste lines stubbed up through the floor or walls in correct locations
• Range hood and doorbell wires roughed-in in correct locations

4. Recommended Staff/Crew Assignments

It is suggested that approximately 4-6 volunteers, including 1-2 crew leaders, be recruited for Cabinets and Countertops. As with the Interior Trim, this work is quite precise and must be done by the most experienced volunteer crews.

6. Tools/Equipment list

Tools & Equipment Needed at Each Site:

• Twelve-Gauge Drop Cords (50'-100' as needed for power)
• Electric Drill
• Cordless Drill(s)
• Belt Sander (for fitting back-splashes)
• 6’ ladder(s)
• Broom
• Caulking Gun
• Spade bits / hole saws (for plumbing lines into cabinets)
• Table saw
• Miter saw

Tools Each Crew Leader Will Need:

• 30' Measuring Tape
• 4' Level
• 2' Level
• Cat’s Paw
• Pry Bar
• Framing Square
• Chalk Line

Tools Each Crew Member Will Need:

• Hammer (16 oz. Min.)
• Nail Apron
• Retractable Utility Knife
• Measuring Tape (16' Min.)
• 2 Pencils
• Safety Glasses
• Ear Protection

7. Material List

• 3” Cabinet Screws (typically supplied w/ cabinets)
• 1 ¼” Screws (to fasten countertops)
• Latex caulk
• Clear silicone caulk
• Bundle of split shims
• Countertops/Vanity Tops
• Kitchen & Bath Cabinets
• Layout drawing supplied by cabinet supplier

8. Quality Checkpoints

____ Cabinets properly fitted against walls
____ Cabinets and countertops securely fastened
____ Kickboards installed

9. Construction Drawings and Text

NOTE: The following drawings, diagrams, and text are to be used on the job site when a question arises as to methods and procedures associated with the task. The notes on the drawings have been geared toward use as a quick reference. If a more in-depth explanation is needed, please read the text description. But most importantly, consult your Habitat Site Supervisor and Construction Manager for advice as needed.

1. Installing Kitchen and Bath Cabinets

Factory built pre-finished wood cabinets are installed in the kitchen and bathrooms according to the plan provided by the cabinet manufacturer. Base cabinets are installed after the underlayment and vinyl tile are installed. Before installing any cabinets, mark the locations of the wall studs behind where the cabinets are to go and make sure the kitchen range vent wire has been pulled through the drywall in the proper location as noted on plans. It is also important to make sure that all cabinets are installed so that the door swings the correct direction. Many wall cabinets are designed so that either end can be installed at the top, so it is easy to mistakenly install a cabinet upside down so the door swings the wrong direction.

Wall units are attached first. A decision should be made as to which end you will begin installing cabinets. This is important as a gap will result at the other end that will require a spacer strip. Usually it is best to begin against a wall with a full height cabinet. This will often result in the spacer strip being placed next to a shorter cabinet above the refrigerator space.

According to the plans, locate and snap a chalk line or draw a pencil line at the location of the top of where the cabinets will be. Typically measurements are taken from the floor. Check to make sure that the line is level. Each cabinet will have a strip of thicker material at the top and at the bottom. This strip is where the screws should be placed. Use the special cabinet mounting screws (3" long) to screw the cabinets at each side of the top and bottom strip into the blocking. Caution should be used to avoid the screws being visible. Additional screws should be added so that there is a screw every 12 inches. If blocking was not installed or cannot be located, drive screws in at each stud location.

The fronts of the cabinets need to be attached together to close any gaps that may be present. This should be done as each successive cabinet is installed and not put off until after all cabinets have been installed. The best location to place screws is behind the hinges, as this will hide them. Remove the hinges from the cabinet. Pull the edges of the two cabinets together manually or with clamps, being careful not to damage the surfaces. Predrill one hole at the location of each hinge from the inside of the front of one of the cabinets into the front of the other, being careful not to drill all the way through. Drive a screw into each hole until the head is flush. If done properly, the fronts of both cabinets will be flush and all gaps will have been eliminated. Reattach the hinges.

When all cabinets have been installed, measure the remaining gap between the last cabinet and the wall. Using the table saw, cut a strip of matching material to that width. Cut it to length with the miter saw. Install it in the same technique described in the previous paragraph to attach the fronts of adjacent cabinets.

Base units sit on the floor and are mainly attached in the back to wall studs with cabinet mounting screws. The cabinet manufacturer provides a hanging rail along the back of each unit for this purpose. Cabinets should be installed from the same starting point as the wall cabinets as the plan often calls for them to line up vertically. If for any reason, installation must start elsewhere, care should be taken to ensure alignment of base and wall cabinets. Before installing the base cabinets, drill holes for plumbing pipes and electrical wires through the backs of the units as needed. Use a 2" hole saw bit for plumbing drain pipes and a 1" spade bit for water pipes or electrical wires (some prefer to make slightly larger holes).

The fronts of the base cabinets should be screwed together in the same manner as the wall cabinets. Any remaining gap should also be filled with a spacer as was done with the wall cabinets.

NOTE: If the floors are not close to level, or if they don't fit together evenly, it may be necessary to shim under the base of the cabinet so the units will fit tight against the wall from top to bottom and so that they are level. If necessary, locate the high point of the mounting area and start the installation of the cabinets at that corner.

After the base cabinets have been installed, kickboards need to be attached. The appropriate material is cut to length, construction adhesive is applied to the base cabinets where the kickboard will be attached, and then it is put into place. The board should be installed to minimize any gap between it and the tile floor. 6d or 8d nails should be nailed through the top of the kickboard, where they will be hidden by the cabinets, into the base cabinets to secure the kickboards.

2. Installing Countertops
Kitchen countertops are typically post-formed tops (with back splash already attached).

Post-formed tops are attached to the tops of the base cabinets using 1 ¼" drywall screws. The fasteners are screwed through the 1" x 2" mounting strips or plastic bracing (provided by the cabinet manufacturer) into the under side of the countertops. Be careful not to use too long of a screw.

Bath vanity tops are one-piece sink units, which are typically installed by volunteers. Make sure that they are set in a bed of silicone caulk 

Printer-friendly version
  Page last updated Saturday, May 3, 2008 at 6:40:14 PM