1. Introduction

At the present time, HfH St. Louis is installing laminate wood flooring in all non-basement bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms and hallways. This material was first used in the 2004 blitz build in Hope Square and has proven to be an excellent alternative to vinyl flooring tiles. Vinyl flooring tiles will continue to be used in bathrooms and in finished basement rooms. The laminate flooring chosen by HfH St. Louis is a glueless, floating system, allowing the complete flooring installation to be done with volunteer labor. Furthermore, the entire home can be easily completed in one or two weekend build sessions.

2. Safety Issues

• Wear ear and eye protection when using power saws and staplers.
• Don't bind the blade of any saw. When cutting long panels, the blade may bind and kick back toward the operator.
• Ear protection may be recommended during the installation of the luan, as many people/hammers will be working at the same time in confined rooms.

3. Prior tasks to have been completed before starting

• Ideally the drywall should be finished and walls painted with at least one coat of primer (and paint if possible) before installing the underlayment / laminate flooring.
• HVAC register vents cut out in subfloor.

4. Recommended Staff/Crew Assignments

On the flooring installation workday the crew should consist of 2-3 crew leaders divided in groups across several of the rooms. For example, one crew could be set up in the living/dining room, while the other two crews can be set up in the bedrooms. The limiting factor in the task will be access to the miter saw. It is recommended to set up a “cut” crew to provide miter saw cuts to cut flooring pieces for the various installation crews. This provides the most efficient and safe distribution of volunteer labor. It is suggested that each crew consist of 3-4 volunteers per crew leader.

5. Order/Tasks to be completed By Whom?

____ 1. Remove excess materials, etc. from main floor of house All crews

____ 2. Sweep / Vacuum the floors very carefully as you go 2-3 people

____ 3. Measure, cut and install plastic underlayment material 2 persons per crew

____ 4. Tack spacer boards along walls prior to flooring install 1-2 people per crew

____ 5. Measure, cut and install laminate flooring All crews

____ 6. Clean floor and apply paper protection in high traffic areas 1-2 people

____ 7. Clean site, restack materials, return tools All crews

6. Tools/Equipment list

Tools & Equipment Needed at Each Site:

• Twelve-Gauge Drop Cords (50'-100' as needed for power at site)
• Heavy-duty Power Strips
• Brooms / Vacuum
• Saw Horses
• Jig Saw
• Miter Saw
• Hacksaw

Tools Each Crew Leader Will Need:

• 30' Measuring Tape
• Framing Square
• Chalk Line

Tools Each Crew Member Will Need:

• Retractable Utility Knife
• Measuring Tape (16' Min.)
• Pencils
• Safety Glasses
• Ear Protection
• Knee Pads (if available)

7. Material List

• Plastic underlayment material
• Laminate Flooring
• Profile Track and T-Molding pieces
• Scrap luan underlayment for spacers

8. Quality Checkpoints

____ Floors totally free of debris before underlayment installation

____ Underlayment properly installed and overlapped

____ Flooring layout predetermined / chalked out (hallway, etc.)

____ Proper spacing around perimeter and at doorways and cabinets, etc.

____ All Flooring pieces fully locked together

____ All threshold and T-Molding pieces properly installed

____ All materials restacked, site cleaned up, tools accounted for and put away

9. Construction Drawings and Text

NOTE: The following drawings, diagrams, and text are to be used on the job site when a question arises as to methods and procedures associated with the task. The notes on the drawings have been geared toward use as a quick reference. If a more in-depth explanation is needed, please read the text description. But most importantly, consult your Habitat Site Supervisor and Construction Manager for advice as needed.

Installing Underlayment:

The underlayment for the laminate flooring consists of plastic sheeting material that will be dispensed from a three foot roll. Install the underlayment perpendicular to the subfloor sheathing and start from one end of the room working your way across the room. The plastic sheeting material should be overlapped slightly at the seams. The amount of overlap is indicated on the plastic sheeting material with adhesive strips. Use the adhesive strips to connect adjacent rows of plastic sheeting. If any part of the underlayment is punctured or damaged during installation, seal the area with a moisture proof tape.

Installing Laminate Flooring:

The Laminate Floors are designed to be “floated”. That means they should never be nailed or glued to the subfloor; but rather, each panel joint is connected with the next, creating a strong, continuous surface. One of the most important aspects of a glueless Laminate Floor installation is the precise placement of the first three rows of laminate panels. If the first three rows are square and tight, the rest of the installation process will go much smoother.

NOTE: Laminate Floors are intended to be installed as a floating floor system. Never secure flooring to the subfloor with nails, glue, or screws. Use spacers to ensure a minimum of 5/16" expansion space around the perimeter of the floor.

General Instructions:

Divide the work area’s width in inches by the panel width (7.625"). This number will tell you how many panels are required to cross the room. It will also help you figure out the width of the last panel. If the last panel will be less than 2" wide, the first panel to be laid must be cut to compensate for the difference on this last panel. For example, if your room measures 146" wide, then your last panel would be 1 1/8" wide, less than the 2" panel width minimum. You must cut the first panel to measure 4 3/8" to compensate for the last panel, which would also measure 4 3/8".

NOTE: When cutting laminate panels, the rotation of the saw blade must always cut into the decorative layer of the laminate floor.

When possible, panels should run parallel to incoming light sources such as windows. Panels should run parallel to the longest wall in the installation area. This is especially true in long, narrow spaces such as hallways.

Typically the cut-off material from the first row can be used to begin the second row, but the starter panels must be between 8" and 12" in length. Panels in adjoining rows must be staggered at least 8" minimum. Do not make all starter panels equal in length. An easy way to mark the last panel in a row is to place the panel in position with the tongue against the tongue of the previously laid panel and the end of the panel against the spacing wedge. Mark a line with a pencil across the panel and cut along this line. The remainder of the panel can be used to start the next row of panels.

Joining the End Seams:

With the tongue facing the wall raise the right side of the plank to a 45º angle. The tongue of the panel held at an angle is inserted into the groove of the installed panel. Slide the plank forward along the end seam until it touches the plank in the previous row. The ends of both panels are then interlocked by lowering the angled paneled down to the floor.

Joining the End and Long Seams:

In order for the new panel that is interlocked on the end seam to also be interlocked on the long seam, tilt the plank together with the previous panel connected to its end, and held at a 45º angle to the previously installed row. The long side of the new panel is then interlocked with the panels in the previously installed row by lowering both panels down to the floor.

Installing the First Row:

The floating nature of the laminate flooring requires a 5/16" spacing around the perimeter of the floor. The use of scrap luan underlayment can be used for spacers. Install spacers along the starting wall and at both end walls. Starting with the tongue side facing the wall lay the first panel onto the underlayment. Attach the next panel by lifting the right side of the panel to a 45º angle and attaching the end seam.

Installing Additional Rows:

To start the second row, join the starter panel to the groove of the first row. This is achieved by inserting the tongue of the starter panel at a 45º angle into the groove of the previously laid panel. The long seam is locked when the panel lies flat on the subfloor and the joint is tightly closed.

Insert the end seam tongue of the next panel to the end seam of the starter panel. Tilt the groove edge of the panel and the starter panel to a 45º angle and push the tongue into the long seam. Lower both panels to the subfloor.

Last Row Installation

The last row to be installed in the work area will most likely require cutting to width. These final panels should be no less than 2" wide. Position a panel that has been cut to the correct length over the last panel in the previous row and align the two panels exactly (maintain staggered end joints). Lay a 3" long scrap piece of panel with the tongue against the wall over the top of the panel to be cut and scribe the contour of the wall with a pencil. Saw each panel in the last row accordingly and fit them into place using a pull bar. Then add 5/16" spacing wedges to hold the joints firmly in place and to create the required expansion gap between these last panels and the wall. Doorframes, kick bases, and counter bases can sometimes be undercut to hide the laminate flooring panel edge. In all cases where the undercut method of installation is used, you must allow proper expansion areas behind the undercut.

The Golden Rules of Installation

• Position the end of a new panel at an angle
• Lower the new panel – the end interlocks
• Lift the previously laid panel together with the new one
• Slide the new panel into the groove of the previous row
• Simultaneously lower the previously laid panel with the new one – the side interlocks

Doorways and Thresholds

A special T-Molding is u sed in doorways or thresholds to join two areas of laminate flooring. The T-Molding is to be installed with the Profile Track system. The Profile Track system consists of an aluminum rail that can be nailed or glued to the subfloor. Cut a Profile Track to the desired length with a hacksaw. Before the floor is laid, nail or glue the Profile Track with finishing nails or contact cement to the subfloor (not to the laminate.) Make sure to leave double the expansion space (two times 5/16" equals 5/8") where a panel meets the Profile Track to allow room for the molding and the 5/16" expansion space. After all the panels are installed, set the molding on the Profile Track and gently tap into place until secure with a non-marring rubber mallet.

General Rules for Laminate Flooring Installation

Things to do to make the job a quality installation

• Inspect all planks prior to install
• Start with tongue edges against the wall (always working left to right.)
• Always install end seams first, long seams second.
• Raise right side of plank to 45º
• Insert tongue of end seam into groove of end seam squarely.
• Slide end seam forward until long seam touches.
• Lower plank to sub floor (keeping end seam tight and square), end seam should now be engaged.
• Tilt the plank you are working with and the previous plank to a 45º angle at the long seam.
• Slide plank end seam forward until long seam engages.
• Push in and down.
• Clean with Laminate Cleaner and a dry mop.

Things to avoid

• Don’t use a tapping block
• Don’t use a hammer
• Don’t kick end seams together
• Don’t install damaged or defective planks
• Don’t use tools or material designed for other products

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Page last updated Saturday, May 3, 2008 at 6:40:12 PM