Chapter 12: Interior Framing

1. Introduction

Interior framing is exciting as it allows the volunteers to see what the house will look like inside. It should be able to be completed in one day, with the possible exception of the stairs and stairwell. If the basement floor has not have been poured, this will need to be done a different day.

2. Safety Issues

• Review the Morning Safety Huddle Talking Papers for Ladder Work with the volunteers.
• Volunteers should be instructed in proper use of power tools and safety precautions.
• Wear ear & eye protection when using power saws.
• Discard bonding material from bundled lumber. The corners may be very sharp and can cause injury.
• Habitat requires that hard hats be worn if any work is being done overhead.

3. Prior tasks to have been completed before starting

• Floor joists installed and subfloor laid.
• Exterior walls raised and straightened.
• Materials on site.

4. Recommended Staff/Crew Assignments

• One person to be safety supervisor.
• A crew of 3 to build headers (unless window and door framing has been prebuilt).
• A crew of 3 to be the saw crew.
• The remaining volunteers can be divided into crews of 5 - 6 to assemble and stand walls.

6. Tools/Equipment list

• Hammers
• Nail aprons
• Tape measures
• Pencils
• Chalk box
• Cat's paw
• Prybar
• Carpenter's square
• Speed square
• 6-foot level
• Twelve-Gauge Drop Cords (50'-100' as needed for power at site)
• Reciprocating saw
• Compound miter saw
• 2 saw horses
• Heavy-duty Power Strips
• Circular Saw (7¼")
• Step Ladders (8')
• Step Ladders (6')
• Safety glasses
• Hard Hats

7. Material List

• 2 x 6 lumber, long lengths for plates
• 2 x 6 lumber, precuts for framing (92 5/8")
• 2 x 4 lumber, long lengths for plates
• 2 x 4 lumber, precuts for framing (92 5/8")
• 2 x 4 pressure treated for plate for the stair walls
• 16d nails
• "the Nailer" if used
• Roofing nails if "the Nailer" is used

8. Quality Checkpoints

____ Chalk line layout is correct
____ Plates laid out correctly
____ All studs properly crowned
____ Walls built with correct nailing pattern
____ Raise walls and brace
____ Cap plate installed properly
____ Blocking installed
____ Attic access installed (if applicable)
____ Drywall nailers installed

9. Construction Drawings and Text

NOTE: The following drawings, diagrams, and text are to be used on the job site when a question arises as to methods and procedures associated with the task. The notes on the drawings have been geared toward use as a quick reference. If a more in-depth explanation is needed, please read the text description. But most importantly, consult your Habitat Site Supervisor and Construction Manager for advice as needed.

Framing Layout
According to the plans, locate all interior walls and snap chalk lines for both sides of each wall on the subfloor. Most walls will be 3 ½" wide except the plumbing wall which will be 5 ½" wide. Cut a top and a bottom plate for each wall and lay them where they will be located. According to the plans, locate all doors. The rough opening should be marked on the plate. The rough opening for a door will be 2 inches greater than the stated dimension. Mark these points on the plate and then additional marks 1 ½" away from the opening. Make lines across the plate and put a "J" between the marks for "jack stud". Jack studs will support headers. Make additional marks 1 ½" from the jack stud and mark with an "X". This will be the "king stud", a full precut stud. The studs are typically laid out at 16 inches on center. Therefore, a mark is made at each 16" increment and an additional mark is made 1 ½" beyond that. There is no need to offset the second stud ¾" as was done in exterior framing. Use a speed square to make lines across the plate at each mark. An "X" should be put between each set of marks at each location where a precut stud will be used. Top and bottom plates can temporarily be nailed together (leaving heads up for easy removal) if the wall will be built later. Both the subfloor and the plates should be clearly marked so that each wall can be returned to the correct location and be placed in the same direction.

Framing
Long walls should be built and raised first. Shorter adjoining walls are built later. It is important not to try to build too many walls at one time as this can lead to increased confusion and limited working space. Some house leaders will choose to assemble all the smaller walls first and set them out of the way as there will be less room to work when the long walls are standing.

Place the bottom plate and the top plate approximately 8 feet apart. A full precut stud should be placed between each set of corresponding X's. Make sure that the crown is placed up on all studs to prevent a wavy wall. The crown is determined by looking down the 1 ½" edge of the stud to see which edge is convex. The convex edge is the crowned edge. Seriously warped boards should be set aside to be used when shorter pieces are needed. Nail through each plate into the stud with 16d nails, 3 nails on each end for 2 x 6 framing and 2 nails for 2 x 4 framing. 16d nails will be used for all framing.

Each door opening will need a header. Measure to the outer edge of the two jack studs to determine the length. The header is constructed with a two 2 x 4's sandwiched around ½" sheathing or blue board. The header is installed so that the 3 ½" surfaces are flush with the outsides of the wall. Jack studs are then cut the distance from the bottom plate to the bottom of the header and nailed into place.

It is also a good idea to check the HVAC plans to determine if any of the wall cavities of the interior walls will be used for transporting air, either hot/cold or as a return. Interior wall framing should be laid out so that the studs surrounding the cavities are located so that ductwork can be attached from beneath the subfloor without being obstructed by floor joists. The bottom plate and the subfloor will eventually be cut out in these locations for air transport.

Cripple studs are cut to go between the header and the top plate and are installed with one on either end of the header and the middle ones will continue the 16" on center pattern of the wall. All adjoining pieces need to be nailed for stability.

Raising the Walls
Because there is no sheathing applied, most walls can be raised by just a few people. Each wall should be stood and placed in its proper location. It is then nailed with 16d nails into the subfloor, into floor joists whenever possible. It should have 2 nails between each stud. Using a level, make sure each wall is plumb as it is raised. Use bracing as was done with the exterior walls to ensure that the walls stay plumb.

It should be noted that as the interior walls are raised, the bracing for the exterior walls may need to be moved. If the bracing is removed without securing new bracing first, the wall will need to be straightened again as it may have moved. As walls are stood which intersect with the exterior walls, new bracing may be applied along the interior wall from the top plate of the exterior wall to the bottom plate of the interior wall. This may allow removal of old bracing maximizing the amount of working space available.

Temporary bracing should remain in place until permanent structural elements (roof trusses, second story floor joists, etc.) are in place that will prevent movement of walls.

Half walls are frequently called for in the plans, most often in the kitchen and also at the stair openings. The wall in the kitchen is easily secured, but the wall at the stair opening is difficult to make sturdy. One method that has been used effectively is to make multiple notches in the bottom plate 1 ½" x 3 ½" and a corresponding notches in the floor sheathing. Each notch should be next to a stud. Check for floor joist location prior to making notches as the notches should not be over floor joists. A full length stud is inserted through the notch and nailed to the adjacent stud and top plate. Because the inserted stud is longer than the half wall, it will extend into the basement into the location of what will be a stud wall adjacent to the stairs. When this wall is built it will need corresponding notches in the top plate and stud layout should be done so that studs are placed adjacent to the 2 x 4's extending through from the half wall. These 2 x 4's are nailed to the studs. By running the framing through the floor into this basement wall, the half wall is much sturdier.

Wall ladders are used at intersections of walls. Scrap 2 x 4 is cut to the length (usually 14 ½") and nailed between the adjacent studs of the wall being intersected. There should be one centered 2 ft., 4 ft, and 6 ft. from the floor and they should be inserted so the 3 ½" surface is flush with the framing. A new product called "the Nailer" may be used. If it is, only the center 2 x 4 of the ladder is necessary. The end stud of the intersecting wall is then secured with 3 - 4 nails at each piece of the ladder as well at the top and bottom plate.

Blocking is also installed for the cabinets, closet shelving, towel racks, and the toilet paper holder so that these objects can be securely fastened to the wall. It may also be used for closet shelving. Consult the plans and HFHSL construction staff. The location of the top and bottom of cabinets and the location of the towel racks and toilet paper holders are located and 2 x 4 pieces are nailed between adjacent studs with the 3 ½" surface flush with the framing.

Cap Plate
The cap plate installation ties all walls together and gives additional strength. The cap plate will be installed over all top plates and will be done with the same width to create a double plate. The most important aspect of this is at the intersections. When one wall meets another, the cap plate should extend across the top plate of the wall it intersects. All cap plates should be nailed over each wall stud with 2 nails if a 2 x 4 and 3 nails if a 2 x 6. Each intersection needs 5 - 6 nails.

Drywall Nailers
When drywall is installed all the edges will need a surface to attach it to, although it can span up to 8" without a nailer if absolutely necessary. Studs or scrap sheathing can be nailed to existing framing to provide the needed surface. The nailers should extend 2" from the framing it is attached to. Drywall nailers for the ceiling cannot be installed until the roof trusses or second story floor joists have been installed, and will only be needed on walls that run parallel to the trusses or second story floor joists.

A new product called "the Nailer" may be used. It is a plastic clip that will be nailed to the framing in all places that drywall nailers are typically applied. One is attached every 16 inches with a roofing nail. The drywall can be screwed into each clip and traditional nailers as described above are not necessary.

Stairwell framing
Stair walls are built on both the sides of the stairwell as specified on the plans. The basement floor will be sloped so the walls will be built in place rather than being built then raised. The bottom plate should be cut from pressure treated 2 x 4 lumber. Cut both the top and bottom plates. The top plates should be nailed to the bottom of the floor joists, ensuring they will form a flush wall continuously from the ceiling. Lay the bottom plate on the floor underneath and measure the distance from the top plate to the bottom plate at each stud location. Cut the studs to size and toe nail them in using 16d nails. Use a level to make sure the studs are vertical when nailing. After the wall is built, use 6 ft level to straighten wall then secure bottom plate to concrete using power nailer or other fastening method.

If a stairwell deck is called for, it is built once the walls have been built. This should be built out of 2 x 8's using 3 16d nails to secure each corner. Additional 2 x 8's should be attached with 3 16d nails at each end and should be framed 16" on center. The framing is then inserted into the stairwell so that it can be attached to all basement walls. Use a level to ensure the deck is level and nail it to all adjacent studs with 3 16d nails the appropriate distance below the floor joists (an additional ¾" should be added to this distance as the deck will have ¾" sheathing). The sheathing should be cut to size.. The kickboard for the stringers should be located so that it can be nailed into the 2 x 8 framing, and an additional support may need to be added in the framing for this reason. Apply construction adhesive to all surfaces and lay the sheathing on the surface. Nail 8d nails every 8" on all framing.

Stringers for the stairs will need to be cut. Layout for the stringers can be difficult and should be done carefully and rechecked for accuracy prior to cutting. Each step has a tread (the part that will be stepped on) and a riser (the vertical component). Determine the dimensions of each riser and tread from the plans. Each of these measurements should be located on opposite sides of a carpenter's square. Lay the square on the 2 x 12 so that these points are on the edge. Use a pencil to trace the edges of the square. The square is then moved so that one of the points is placed at the location where the other point was previously. Again, trace the edges. Continue to move the square until all treads and risers have been marked. Count to make sure that there are enough treads and risers. If there are not, the layout will need to be done again. The top tread should be located. A line needs to be placed parallel to the riser so that when cut, it can be butted up to the floor joist header. The bottom riser should then be located, it will need to be 1 ½" shorter than the rest of the risers (1 ½" is the width of the stair material and will make all steps equal in step height). Using a circular saw, cut the tread and riser marks to the intersections. A hand saw will be needed to complete the cut into the intersection. Once the stringer is completely cut, test fit it. Note that the bottom riser is 1 ½" less than the others. The top of the stringer should be located so that when the 1 1/2" tread is added the step eight will be equal with the others. If the stringer fits properly, use it to transfer the markings onto the other two 2 x 12's. Cut the final 2 stringers. The front of the bottom riser of each stringer should be notched so that a 2 x 4 will fit and serve as a kick board to prevent the stringers from sliding forward. Once located, the kick board will be nailed to the deck framing or to the basement floor depending on the plans. If it is to the basement floor, the kickboard should be pressure treated lumber.

The stringers can be installed in one of several ways. One is to cut a piece of ¾" sheathing which will cover the floor joist header and extend down far enough that the stringers can be nailed through the sheathing. 16d nails should be used if this is done. Another method is to use metal strapping or hangers if available. The side stringers should be installed first. If the drywall has not been installed, 2x4's should be nailed with 16d nails into the stud walls so that their bottoms will be flush with the bottoms of the stringers. This location can be found by placing the stringer against the stud wall and marking the bottom. The stringer is then nailed to the 2 x 4 with 16d nails. This leaves a 1 1/2" gap between the stringer and the stud wall which will allow for the skirt board and the drywall. If the drywall is already installed, nail the 1 x 12 skirt board over the drywall into the wall studs. The skirt board needs to be placed so that when the stairs are installed it will extend above the ends of the treads. This will allow a continuous piece of baseboard to be run down the stairwell. The stringers are then nailed over the skirt board into the stud walls. The center stringer should be installed. The kick board is put in place and nailed to the framing of the stairwell deck. All stringers should be toe nailed to the framing of the stairwell deck.

If drywall and skirt boards have been installed, the finish treads and risers can be installed. The risers are cut to size from 1 x 8 material or ¾" plywood and nailed in place with 8d nails. If the wood will remain exposed when finished, finish nails should be used. 2 x 12's are then cut to size and installed with 16d nails. Use construction adhesive on the stringers first. If drywall has not been installed, temporary steps (treads only) are installed. It is preferable to use 2 x material to ensure equal step height. ¾" sheathing could also be used. The ends should not extend laterally beyond the edges of the stringers to ensure that the drywall and skirt boards can be installed.

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Page last updated Saturday, May 3, 2008 at 6:39:54 PM