Chapter 28: Shelving, Hardward & Accessories

1. Introduction

On most Habitat projects the Shelving, Hardware, Toilet Accessories, etc. can be completed during 1 to 2 scheduled workdays. This includes each of the items shown on the Order/Task list. Many of these tasks can be done simultaneously by different crews. (Often in conjunction with the Interior Trim jobs). Again, as with the trim installation, it is important to have experienced crew leaders for this phase.

2. Safety Issues

• Wear ear & eye protection when using power saws.
• Don't bind the blade of any saw.
• Keep electric cords out of the way of the saw.

3. Prior tasks to have been completed before starting

• Painting of walls and ceilings should be complete.
• Vinyl tile floor installed.
• Baseboard trim installed.

4. Recommended Staff/Crew Assignments

It is suggested that approximately 8-10 volunteers, including 2-3 crew leaders, be recruited for these many small jobs. Divide the crews up by distributing the experience level among the crew leaders. Each crew is then assigned to certain rooms or tasks.

6. Tools/Equipment list

Tools & Equipment Needed at Each Site:

• Twelve-Gauge Drop Cords (50'-100' as needed for power)
• Electric Drill
• Cordless Drill(s)
• Broom

Tools Each Crew Leader Will Need:

• 30' Measuring Tape
• Torpedo level
• 2' Level
• Chalk Line
• Tiny Screw Driver (for bath accessories)
• Stud-finder

Tools Each Crew Member Will Need:

• Hammer (16 oz. Min.)
• Nail Apron
• Retractable Utility Knife
• Measuring Tape (16' Min.)
• 2 Pencils

7. Material List

• Bathroom Hardware Kit (towel bars / TP holder, etc.)
• Pre-made wood plaques for mounting towel bars, mailbox, house numbers (if applicable)
• Interior Door Locks
• Door Bumpers
• Medicine Cabinet (if used)
• House Numbers
• Dryer Vent Kit
• Mailbox
• Wire shelving and mounting accessories
• Mirror
• Handrail
• Handrail hardware

8. Quality Checkpoints

____ Towel bars and bathroom hardware securely attached
____ Railing securely attached
____ House numbers (front and back) attached properly and visible from street (or alley)
____ Door hardware installed properly (closet doors also)
____ Wire shelving attached securely
____ Mirror securely attached
____Mailbox properly installed

9. Construction Drawings and Text

NOTE: The following drawings, diagrams, and text are to be used on the job site when a question arises as to methods and procedures associated with the task. The notes on the drawings have been geared toward use as a quick reference. If a more in-depth explanation is needed, please read the text description. But most importantly, consult your Habitat Site Supervisor and Construction Manager for advice as needed.

1. Installing the Bathroom Hardware

Medicine Cabinets (if used)
Install recessed medicine cabinets in each bathroom, beside the lavatory in a framing hole provided by the framing carpenters. Attach the cabinets to the wall framing, with the screws provided, through pre-punched holes in the sides of the cabinet.

Towel Bars
Install the towel bar as shown on the plans. Mount the pre-built wooden plaques first, using a stud finder to locate the fastening areas. Using a short level, hold the towel bar level and mark a point at each end of the bar. Then attach the mounting bracket to the wall using one screw at the center hole in the bracket. Attach the towel bar ends (with the bar in place) to the wall brackets by tightening the set screws. If the wooden plaques are not used, the towel bars are installed directly through the drywall into the blocking that should have been installed during framing.

Toilet Paper Holder
Install the toilet paper holder as shown on the plans near the toilet, either on the end of the bath vanity cabinet or on the drywall. Mount as described above or attach the wall bracket to the cabinet with 3/4" wood screws.

Shower Rod
Install the adjustable shower rod just above the top of the shower walls.

Mirror
Mount the mirror above the vanity with the clips provided. Center it horizontally above the cabinet and vertically between the light fixtures and the countertop.

2. Door Hardware

Interior Door Locksets
After re-installing the interior doors, it is then time to install the locksets. Following the manufacturer's instruction, install a privacy lockset on each bedroom and bathroom door and a passage lockset on the kitchen, hall, and coat closet doors. (The doors are pre-drilled to receive the hardware.) "Dummy" knobs get attached to the outside face of the bedroom closet doors. It may be necessary to chisel out some areas on the latches, etc., so it is a good idea to have a sharp chisel handy. Always pre-drill the screw holes.

Door Bumpers
Install spring style door bumpers in the baseboard behind each interior and exterior door to prevent the doorknob from coming in contact with the wall. Use a nail set, drill bit, or a 16d nail to make a pilot hole in the baseboard, then screw the bumper in by hand (or use an open end or crescent wrench). Install the bumper so it contacts the solid part of the door, which is approximately 1" around its perimeter.

An alternate method of limiting the amount of door swing is to use a block that attaches to the door hinge. Install according to the instructions on the package.

3. Installing Closet Shelving

The shelves that HFH St. Louis are currently using are the wire variety.

The shelves have main support brackets that are attached on the side walls at the front end of each shelf. Along the back of the shelf, there are smaller clips that are to be attached every 12". In the bedroom closets there is a mid-support bracket that should be located at the closest wall stud to the middle of the closet.

4. Installing stairway railing

For each stairway in the home, a stairway railing must be installed. The stairway railing material will be provided as part of the stairway materials kit that should include the stair treads, risers, and railing. Typically, the stairway railing will require three hangers to secure the railing to the stairway wall. One at both ends of the railing and one in the middle. To properly set the height of the stairway railing, take a regular carpenter’s square and set the short end of the square against the stairway skirt board. Make a mark at the end of the long end of the square. This mark indicates the height of the bottom side of the stairway railing. In some cases, a decorative wood block will be provided for attaching the railing hangers. Attach the wood blocks or hangers to the wall with the screws provided, adjusting the location to ensure the height of the bottom side of the stairway railing is at the previously marked position.

Next, measure the length of the stairway railing by measuring between the two end hangers and adding approximately 3-4" at both ends for the final measurement of the railing. To add a nice finish to the railing, the railing should be mitered at each end with small return pieces attached to the railing and then attached to the wall. Miter the railing at a 45 degree angle at each end with the miter cut facing towards the wall. Use the railing length measurement as the distance between the two outside edges of the miter cuts. Attach the railing to the hangers using the screws provided. Cut two small pieces of stairway railing to provide the return pieces. One end of the piece will have a 45 degree miter cut while the other end will have a straight cut. Measure the distance from the wall to the outside edge of the railing for the length of the return pieces (each piece may be different, so measure both). Attach the return pieces to the railing with construction adhesive and with a 6d finish nail at the miter joint.

5. Installing House Numbers and Mailbox

These items are to be installed on pre-built and primed wood plaques. Mount to the siding using 3" galvanized or stainless steel screws. The house numbers should be plainly visible from the street (and the alley for the back numbers.)

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  Page last updated Saturday, May 3, 2008 at 6:40:15 PM