Chapter 15: Windows and Exterior Doors Section

1. Introduction

Installing the windows and doors typically can be done in one workday, and can usually be accomplished at the same time as other tasks such as setting trusses, building soffits, and roof sheathing. It is important that volunteers take their time and install these items correctly, especially the exterior doors.

2. Safety Issues

• Review the Fall Protection Morning Safety Huddle sheet for Ladders
• Use a ladder that will reach the work. Move the ladder with your work & don't lean. Place ladders on solid footing and have someone holding the ladder when mounting or dismounting.
• Habitat requires that hard hats be worn if work is happening overhead.
• Lift heavy windows carefully and with many hands.

3. Prior tasks to have been completed before starting

• All exterior walls completely rough framed
• Window and door openings cut out properly and straight (check to make sure that the window openings are cut to proper window rough opening dimensions)
• Ensure bottom plate for door openings have been removed
• Nailing strips installed around window and door openings

4. Recommended Staff/Crew Assignments

On the door and window installation day, the crew should be led by at least one experienced crew leader. It is suggested that there be approximately 4-6 volunteers recruited for this task. One crew can install doors and another can be installing windows. Typically once the doors and window are installed, the lock sets are installed on the doors.

6. Tools/Equipment list

Tools & Equipment Needed at Each Site:

• Extension Ladder (16')
• Step Ladders (8')
• Step Ladders (6')

Tools Each Crew Leader Will Need:

• 25' Measuring Tape
• 4' Level
• 2' Level
• Framing Square
• Caulking gun
• Chisel(s)

Tools Each Crew Member Will Need:

• Hammer
• Nail Apron
• Retractable Utility Knife with Extra Blades
• Measuring Tape (16' Min.)
• Square (Speed or Combination)
• Utility Knife
• 2 Pencils
• Safety Glasses
• Work Gloves
• Ear Protection
• Hard Hats (if work is going on overhead)

7. Material List

• Vinyl windows
• 1-¼" roofing nails
• Latex caulking
• Silicone caulking
• Tyvek wrap (used for flashing)
• Tyvek tape
• Front and side exterior pre-hung doors
• Shims
• 16d finish nails
• Locksets and deadbolt hardware

8. Quality Checkpoints

9. Construction Drawings and Text

NOTE: The following drawings, diagrams, and text are to be used on the job site when a question arises as to methods and procedures associated with the task. The notes on the drawings have been geared toward use as a quick reference. If a more in-depth explanation is needed, please read the text description. But most importantly, consult your Habitat Site Supervisor and Construction Manager for advice as needed.

1. Installing vinyl windows:

The rough opening must have window flashing material installed to properly seal the window openings. The flashing materials will consist of a sill flashing, two jamb flashings, and a header flashing. The order for installation is important for a proper seal. The sill flashing must be installed prior to installing the window. Cut the sill flashing material at least 12" longer than the width of the rough opening sill. Align the edge of the sill flashing material with the inside edge of the sill and adhere to the rough opening across the sill and up the jambs (min. 6"). Care should be taken to make sure the sill flashing material does not wrap onto the interior surface of the window framing. Next, the outside edge of the sill flashing material should be fanned out and secured to the outside of the window rough opening.

Have a crew bring the windows over to the site and unwrap them carefully and inspect for any damage before installation. With people both inside and outside, test fit the window in the opening (leave the window closed and locked while installing it), making sure that it will fit level and plumb--outside, use a 2' level on the head, sill and sides. Visually center the window in the rough opening. If there are any gaps of ½" or greater when the window is centered, fill the gaps with scrap material sheathing to reduce the size of the window rough opening. Once the window opening has been properly sized, the window can be installed. Have shims available for the inside person to install if necessary on the sill. Remove the window, and put a bead of latex caulk around the inside edge of the window flange on both sides and the top of the window (do not put caulk on the bottom edge of the window). Place the caulk within ¾" of the edge of the flange to ensure a proper bond between the window flange and the exterior sheathing. Place the window in the opening, shim, level, and plumb the window and then nail the window to the sheathing at each corner of the window (leave nail heads partially exposed for easy removal). Open and close the window to test for proper operation and if the window operates correctly, finish nailing the window to the sheathing on all four sides of the window, placing a roofing nail in every other pre-punched hole in the nailing flange. Open and shut the window to make sure that it works properly as installed.

After the window has been installed, the remaining flashing material should be installed. Tyvek flashing material will be provided for the jamb and header flashings. Install both jamb flashings overlapping the entire mounting flange of the window and extending beyond the edge of the window nailer, overlapping the blue board that butts up adjacent to the window nailer. Jamb flashings should extend 6" above the top of the rough opening to below the bottom of the sill flashing. Tyvek tape should be used to seal the Tyvek flashing material to the blue board outer membrane. Next, install the header flashing by overlapping the entire mounting flange of the window and extending beyond the outside edges of both jamb flashings. Seal with Tyvek tape. Finally, seal the interior side of the window to the frame rough opening by running a bead of caulk around the window.

2. Installing exterior doors:

Door installation can be tricky. Make sure to have a crew leader who has done this job before doing the thinking. The door should be installed directly against the nailing strips located around the door rough opening. Make sure there is no blue board insulation material that will interfere with the placement of the door. Check the subfloor at the sill position to see if it is relatively level, and that the bottom plate framing has been removed at the door opening. Check the side studs to make sure that they are also plumb.

Test fit the door with people on both sides of the door. Have the crew leader (or experienced help) on the inside check the gap around the door to see that it is uniform. Close any large gaps between the door and the rough opening with scrap sheathing material. To provide a more secure dead bolt installation, the door should be installed with the lockset side of the door closer to the door rough opening. Use sheathing scrap material or shims to position the door in the opening to provide this positioning. Once the door has been properly positioned and any large gaps are closed, start a few 16d galvanized finish nails in the exterior brick mold trim. Remove the door and put a large bead of silicone caulk on the subfloor where the aluminum sill will be. Re-install the door, tipping it into place into the caulk carefully. If the door looks pretty good, go ahead and put a couple of nails ¾ of the way in on each side of the doorway. Open the door to check that it doesn't bind nor open too easily on it's own. If the door tends to spring open, it may be necessary to remove the middle hinge screw on each of the hinges and replace this screw with a longer screw (3½") that will extend beyond the door trim and in to the door framing to provide the best anchoring of the door to the frame (this will also provide additional strength for the door for security purposes). Once the door stays closed and does not bind to the door trim, continue to nail the exterior brick mold every 16" or so, checking the door as you go. Place shims between the jambs and studs at the top, bottom and in the middle of each side, being careful not to build the shims up too far and forcing the door trim out of alignment. Nail at each shim using 2 16d finish nails.

Install the locksets and deadbolts making sure that all strike plates and latches are mortised correctly.

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  Page last updated Saturday, May 3, 2008 at 6:39:58 PM